Monday, April 27, 2009


Whew! Went to West Van again yesterday on Sunday, and actually climbed a fair bit ! We (Owen, Bill, and I) did a couple of new problems up on the Cypress Hill wall that Owen and others had cleaned, and they were really fun! I repeated Owen's lieback problem (no name yet) - it's probably V2ish, but REALLY fun. Also did another fun problem up there - it starts on opposing gaston holds then heads up and left onto some very cool sloping holds. V3ish, I may call it TV. Then we tried the Cheshire Cat project - very tricky to hold onto it, did the first two moves, but the last three moves look desperate...

Then went down the hill and tried to repeat Jenga - and got my license to climb handed back to me. Ugh. Couldn't do the punch move to the pinch, and fell again and again... Maybe it's harder than V3. V4? Also, One Inch Punch has been done an easier way, and it's now likely V1 or so.

Also spent some time cleaning a few projects at the higher, new area - did a short easy (and somewhat sketchy) problem called Firecracker, and cleaned a short hard project (let's call it the Blasted Project, SD start in the V9ish range, stand-up start in the V7ish range)) and a longish (6 moves at least) very hard arete/roof that looks fantastic. Let's call that one the Roof Project, for lack of a better name).

So new stuff to do at WV...

TV (V3+) Start on the opposing gaston holds at the far end of the Cypress Hill wall, traverse up and left through slots to finish on good juggy hold on mantle. Fun and a little pumpy.

TV Madness (Project). Start as for TV, head straight up. For the strong and flexible.

Owen's Fin (V1+) Climb the obvious fin / crack to a juggy topout. Very cool!

Cheshire Cat (Project, maybe V7?) Start on sidepull arete (L) and undercling (R), then climb up using the slippery smile hold. Fun, but hard...

Blasted (Project, V7ish) start on two obvious crimps at chest height, stuff foot in pocket and head up. (Blasted Low starts with one hand on edge, other in the low pocket)

Roof Project (V9ish) Start on lowest jug. Climb arete.

and like I said, Jenga is now tentatively V4ish, while One Inch Punch is probably V1.


m. said...

Hey Trent you'll have to take me on a tour of all these new boulder problems you've found. I'd be very interested.

Trent (Merely) Hoover said...

Hmmm.. that could easily be arranged. There's probably only 20 problems there so far, lots are short. There are two amazing highballs there, a V1 and a V2. Very cool.

And a super hard project that I am making no progress on.

At all.