Monday, April 27, 2009


Whew! Went to West Van again yesterday on Sunday, and actually climbed a fair bit ! We (Owen, Bill, and I) did a couple of new problems up on the Cypress Hill wall that Owen and others had cleaned, and they were really fun! I repeated Owen's lieback problem (no name yet) - it's probably V2ish, but REALLY fun. Also did another fun problem up there - it starts on opposing gaston holds then heads up and left onto some very cool sloping holds. V3ish, I may call it TV. Then we tried the Cheshire Cat project - very tricky to hold onto it, did the first two moves, but the last three moves look desperate...

Then went down the hill and tried to repeat Jenga - and got my license to climb handed back to me. Ugh. Couldn't do the punch move to the pinch, and fell again and again... Maybe it's harder than V3. V4? Also, One Inch Punch has been done an easier way, and it's now likely V1 or so.

Also spent some time cleaning a few projects at the higher, new area - did a short easy (and somewhat sketchy) problem called Firecracker, and cleaned a short hard project (let's call it the Blasted Project, SD start in the V9ish range, stand-up start in the V7ish range)) and a longish (6 moves at least) very hard arete/roof that looks fantastic. Let's call that one the Roof Project, for lack of a better name).

So new stuff to do at WV...

TV (V3+) Start on the opposing gaston holds at the far end of the Cypress Hill wall, traverse up and left through slots to finish on good juggy hold on mantle. Fun and a little pumpy.

TV Madness (Project). Start as for TV, head straight up. For the strong and flexible.

Owen's Fin (V1+) Climb the obvious fin / crack to a juggy topout. Very cool!

Cheshire Cat (Project, maybe V7?) Start on sidepull arete (L) and undercling (R), then climb up using the slippery smile hold. Fun, but hard...

Blasted (Project, V7ish) start on two obvious crimps at chest height, stuff foot in pocket and head up. (Blasted Low starts with one hand on edge, other in the low pocket)

Roof Project (V9ish) Start on lowest jug. Climb arete.

and like I said, Jenga is now tentatively V4ish, while One Inch Punch is probably V1.

Monday, April 20, 2009

West Van Represent!

I went back to West Van (Cypress Mountain) on the weekend. Mostly I hiked around, but I did scrub a few problems, and worked on trails a bit. I did climb one of the new problems, but it's a bit short and lame.

I am starting to name problems before things get out of hand. So, in the last two weeks, some of the problems I've done include...

In the warmup boulders -

One Inch Punch (V4) SD. Climbs right-hand arete of the Fighter Boulder. Start with a hand on the low jug, and other on good hold on arete.
Ground and Pound (V0) SD. Start very low on sloping shelf on left side of the face. Climb straight up.
Ground Punch (V0) SD. Start as for GAP, but head right along seam after first move to finish on OIP.

On the lower side of the road...

Jenga (V3/4) Starts in an undercling in the little cave. Traverses the lip of the cave, then up right-hand arete. Classic.
Snakes and Ladders (V0) Climb up face left of the cave.
Tic Tac Toe (V1) Climb up the left side of the face using thin slots. Nice.

Also in the area is...

Walk Hard (V0). The tall slab with the slots. Fun!

Bashful (V1). Very short problem on the boulder (uphill R corner of boulder) beneath the cliff. SD start, R on arete L on sidepull.

and on the mountain bike slabs...

Rockhopper (V1). The furthest slab, middle of the trail. Tricky slab with a jug at the lip.

Saturday, April 11, 2009

New Problems in West Van

Hello! I spent a couple of days this week in the new area in West Van, finally climbing some of the stuff we've cleaned. On Tuesday afternoon, Ronald and I went there, and climbed a couple of new slabs and a handful of other problems. Both of the slabs were fun, but not hard - both probably V0 or V1. Most of the other problems we climbed were decent, as well - mostly easy vertical problems in the V0 - V1+ range.

Went back on Friday with Lupin for a half day of hiking and climbing. Found some new boulders near the road (including a cool steep arete in the V9 - V10 range). Finished cleaning my little boulder in the warmup area. Sent three problems on it - two V0s, and a V4 arete. No names yet... but there will be soon. The short arete was actually pretty cool, with a interesting heel hook (five tricky moves up a leaning arete/lip).

Went across the road and sent the project I had cleaned earlier this winter with Bill. Really amazing problem, with a cool heel-toe lock that allows for some otherwise hard moves to be done fairly easily. With the beta I figured out, its probably only V3 or V4. But fun!

So how many problems in WestVan now? Hmmm...

17 I think, with a few more projects. Hopefully we'll scrape together a topo soon.