Topo Now Available

The Godman Creek Topo is finished. Finally. It contains an overview map, maps of the individual areas, and the names and grades of 100 problems (including projects, which are included in the guide and are generally open to anyone who wants to try them).

There is one area in the guide (The Public Works Area) that is included but is not located on the overview map. You'll have to talk to me to get specific instructions on how to get there... :)

"So," you ask, "How do I get this topo?"

Hmmmm...

I'll try to post it somewhere, maybe Dr. Topo or somesuch.

Cheers

Fly, Bee, Fly!

That's what I am calling my project between Bee Train and Twice Shy. Rad name for a cool line. Of course, since I have no idea how to actually dyno, I may never actually manage to send it.

West Van Bouldering Continues!

Hey-dee-ho.

Was back at "The Creek" on Saturday with Bill and Ronald, and a few other UBC folks. Cleaned and established a few cool problems, a few of which are pretty classic.

Just right of Jenga, on a fairly tallish wall, I put up three new problems and a project. Once Bitten (V0-), Twice Shy (V1, maybe V2), and Bee Train (V2). Between Twice Shy and Bee Train I also cleaned a harder project, which involves an almost 6-foot move between holds. Ronald and I worked it for awhile, but never even came close to figuring it out.

Then we went over to the Superball Area, and actually cleaned off some new things over there. With a lot of work, I cleaned off Superball Crack (V0) and Superball (still a project, maybe in the V8 range). The SB Crack is pretty cool - a perfect straight-in fingercrack, ring-locks and all. It would be super-stellar, but it starts on a huge jug, so once your feet are on it, it kills lots of the difficulty of the jamming.

Ronald cleaned off a stack of new problems below the Superball, as well. We climbed two of them, but no names are available yet. I wanted to call the one line Horn of Plenty, but we'll see.

Topo will be available later this week! Promise (crossing fingers behind back)!

Upcoming ManCation!

Went to Godman Creek again this weekend with Shelley, Aya, and Rowan. Also along for the day were our friends Virginia and Matt, and their little boy Alex. We did a BUNCH of easy lines on the first tier to warm up - probably a half dozen V0s and V1s. Aya almost did a really tall V0 - but she couldn't work her feet up in two places so I had to boost her a bit. Still, she's SO fearless - it was amazing to see her climbing a rock face, perfectly happily, 10 feet off the deck.

I did get a chance to try Jenga this weekend - and to my complete surprise, I managed to send it easily! I've come to the conclusion that Jenga is super condition-dependent. I also sent TicTacToe and Snakes and Ladders on the same boulder. I also climbed on the Mountain Bike slabs. Fun - I just wish they were longer!

My ManCation is coming up! But it looks like the rain will start at the same time as my vacation does. Ugh.

Back in West Van

Shelley and I went to Godman Creek today, with Aya and Rowan in tow. Mostly I went just to get out to the forest (Aya loves going to the forest), but also to do a little climbing (not much of that lately, unfortunately). There are so many fun (albeit mostly easy) boulder problems there, and so much potential, that I've decided to start releasing more information on the place. I went to the Cube Boulder area first (which is home to a bunch of short V0 and V1 lines) to warm up a bit. This area doesn't really have anything challenging, although it is a great area to chill out amongst the ferns. I cleaned up and did Underthings (V0/1), which is probably the nicest line on the boulder. The hardest thing on the boulder will be the long traverse which starts on the V0 seam on the back, and crosses almost 3 faces of the boulder to finish on Underthings. I didn't spend too much time on it, and so it remains undone.



Then we crossed to road to look at the lines there. I wanted to do 2 problems I hadn't yet done on the Mountain Bike slabs, and maybe work Jenga (V4/5) for a bit. I did manage to do the slabs, but ran out of time and didn't try Jenga. I have done Jenga before, but was keen to try and repeat it. I sent the left-hand problem on the first Mountain Bike Slab, which has a very cool 2-finger pocket and a tricky high-step. I had heard it was possibly as hard as V3, but I sent it first go and figured it was probably V1 or so. Aya also did some bouldering on the slab - she's a natural! She'll be a top climber for sure!

It's been a while since I updated my blog. I apologize. I have been climbing a bit, despite work, so let me give you a brief update!

I went to a wedding near Nelson, and thought I would use the opportunity to do some bouldering near Hedley. Unfortunately, it was FAR too hot to climb (well over 30C), but Aya and I did check out the boulders there for a few hours. Aya loves to go look at 'the big rocks'. The potential there is greater than I remember - especially for the central cluster of large boulders near the middle of the slide. There could be 50 or so problems on those boulders, but lots would be highballs. All the better!

Luckily, the Hedley Boulders are near Bromley Rock. The deepwater soloing potential of this place is superb - the water is super-deep (30 feet! in places), clear, and warm. The rock is featured, solid, and steep. I tried the central overhanging arete, but got 1/3 of the way up, then downclimbed. I am chicken. I did watch kids jumping off the top of the cliff, though - 60+ feet up! Crazy.

A c0uple of weeks later, I went to Hope to go bouldering for a day. We went with Ronald and Jennifer, our UBC friends. We went to Hunter first - the rock there is so awesome, and the climbing superb! I did a bunch of fun warmups, then SHOCKED myself by repeating Snake Charmer in three tries. It was originally given V7, but now I'm not so sure. I also tried Green Lung, and made some progress. Such fun lines!

Then Ronald and I went to check out a few other areas. We looked at The Shire, and then we hiked up to the SM area - totally undeveloped - huge boulders! Steep! The area is pretty futuristic, though - it'll take a pretty strong crew to put up problems there. One area at SM I looked at I dubbed MonsterLand - huge boulders, all with caves! 20 foot tall double-digit problems everywhere. I'm planning a trip back this fall. Email me if you're curious...

The picture is of the Silver Wall - the source of all boulders for The Shire, Shinobi Gardens, and Leamers.

Peace!

Back at 'The Creek'

Hello!

Went back to 'The Creek' on Sunday to do a little more work, a little more cleaning, with Ronald and Jennifer (who are both super fun to spent time with). We were at the Public Works Area, where there are just a few boulders but lots of tall quality problems all together in a knot. We managed to climb and send a few things, and work on the some projects...

Ron scrubbed a new line - a spectacular, tall, triangular slab, and called it Space Invaders. A quality line! Pictures will follow sometime, hopefully. We also worked on a line on the One Scoop boulder - an awesome line on perfect crimps that heads up to a sloping arete and a bold topout. This line will be stellar - 4 stars! The topout wasn't cleaned though, so no FA (although I could barely link it to the arete).

We then repeated Take The Wheel (V0), which is fun, and put up a new problem that is basically a three move ending of the Helios Project. I think I'll call it Sun Wheel (after the convention of combining names that join problems). We also tried the Dynamite Project, to no avail... I can't even really pull onto the holds. I am fat.

There'll be lots of good stuff there.

Then we went to the Boring Boulders (so named because of all the Bore Holes in the boulders). No problems were sent, but several were cleaned. The Boring Boulders aren't great, mostly because the few boulders that are there are very short...

So, new problem tally - - - -

Helios (V8? Project) Start on the lowest jug, climb along then under the big roof, finish on vertical crimpy face. Much body tension is required.

Helios Arete (V9? Project). Start as for Helios, finish on the arete using a key pinch.

Take The Wheel (V0) ** Start right of the finish of Helios, traverse left along lip and mantle.

Space Invaders (V1) **** Climb the pyramid-shaped slab. Quality.

One Scoop (V6? Project) SDS on large lieback on right side of arete. Head up and left to arete using perfect edges, then finish by mantling onto slab and topping out above. Heady.

One Scoop Extension (V6? Project) Continue along arete to juggy finish. Looks fun, not yet cleaned all the way.

Dynamite (V8? Project) Grab two edges, stuff foot in blast hole, head up. Fun, but powerful.

PO (V1+) SDS The small boulder below the Helios boulder. This problem is a little sucky.

More soon! Hopefully with pictures!