What many climbers don't realize, however, is that Frank Slide offers several additional advantages for the serious climber. First, Frank Slide is a tick- and mosquito-free climbing area, a perk which is fantastic in the spring when the rest of western Canada is inundated with invertebrate pests. Second, there is free camping immediately adjacent to the Slide, which definitely makes for a cheap long-term stay for the dirtbag boulderer. Finally, the Cinnamon Bear Cafe is located in the Crowsnest Pass...
This summer, we invested a lot of time in the Pilgrimage Sector, which is (or was) a relatively untouched area of the Slide across the Crowsnest River at the western edge of the Slide. I had never been across the river to check out this sector until this summer, though I was aware than Mark D., Kyle, and Dan Anhorn had been over there a couple years ago and had put up a large handful of problems, including The River King (V3, reputed to be one of the best of its grade at the Slide). However, the Pilgrimage Sector is aptly named; the approach is a bit complicated, and involves a river crossing and a bit of a hike. This summer, however, the river was low and the weather was hot, making the wade across the river a lot more appealing.
Ironically, the first several times I crossed the river to the Pilgrimage I wouldn't make it to the River King Boulder. On my first trip across the river with Kyle and Dan, we stopped to warm up at the Mayfly Boulder half-way up the slope, and stayed to enjoy the classics Mayfly (hard V3), and Washing Tons of Deliware (V1). I added a hard arete line to the boulder, calling it Stonefly (V5ish). Taking some time to check out the area, I wandered west to see if I could resolve a mystery; from across the river, another large boulder was clearly visible on the slope near the edge of the slide path, but I had never heard anyone talk about such a large block in the sector. Crossing a small rise, I managed to find the boulder fairly easily, but it was apparent why it had never been climbed upon; it was tucked neatly between the trees at the edge of the slide and a ridge of talus, well hidden. Walking around the boulder, I found what every boulderer hopes to find; a wide, well-featured, and overhanging face that rose to a perfect almost-highball height.
One of the first problems we put up on the boulder followed a line of blunt pinches up an overhanging prow. After a few ascents, we removed a suspicious block; though the problem became a bit easier, the sequence was essentially unchanged. The line, Tetris (V4), would soon be recognised as one of the best moderate lines in the sector, and was representative of the fun, technical, and steep lines that would emerge on the boulder in the ensuing weeks as Dan, Kyle, Davin, and I set about climbing all the lines we could manage. Tetris was soon joined by Tetris Low (V6), the unique 2-Pock (V2), Rook Low (V3), and the crimpy highball Domino (V3/4) (all on the right side of the boulder), and The Squamishizer (V4), Strange Attractor (V3), the crimpy Pistolero (V5), Davin's Gunrunner (V8/9), Smoking Gun (V6), and the amazing Smoke Show (V6) (all on the left side of the face). As the summer turned to fall, a number of linkups and alternate finishes were added to the boulder, as well as a dozen easier slab climbs, cementing the reputation of the Tetris Boulder as one of the best single boulders at the Slide for climbers of all grades. A few harder projects still remain in the middle of the face, the so-called "Megos Project" and the "Hojer Project", both of which are likely in the V11 (or harder) range.
Later, I finally did make it to the River King boulder. I quickly found that the boulder's reputation is well-deserved, as I climbed the perfect slopers of The River King (V3), the crisp edges of The Fisher's Mark (V1), and the deceptively hard Magic Carp (V4). There are a number of harder (and taller!) problems on the boulder as well, and I spent a few sessions working lines with some of Frank Slide's most entertaining climbers, including Mark D, Kyle, Dan A., Josh B., and Stephan Pepin. Josh B., apparently recovered from his devastating leg injury, added several high and hard lines to the boulder, including the bold Catch and Release (V6). I'm definitely looking forward to getting back to the boulder!
From across the river, it is apparent that the River King Boulder is paired with another large block of limestone. This boulder (actually one large boulder split into two pieces) hadn't seen any action, so one session we shuffled the pads over and started cleaning up some the lines evident on the steep west face of the boulder. Quickly, a trio of very high-quality lines were added to the boulder, Stasis (V4), Magnesis (V3), and Josh's Voyageur (V8ish). Originally, the landings for these problems were pretty grim, but with some dedicated work (especially by the rock-shuffling machine Dan A.!) the landings have become fairly good.
The Pilgrimage sector has definitely become one of my favorite areas of the Slide. The views are absolutely amazing, the trees and shrubs are a nice change from the rocks-on-rocks scenery of most of the Slide, and though there isn't a huge number of problems, the quality is generally very high. Dan, Kyle, and I built an access trail that allows rapid/easy access to the area, especially the Tetris boulder; directly across from the big River Boulder (from which people jump all summer long) there is now a small cairn, the trail starts immediately upslope of this, switchbacking through the forest until it emerges in the talus below the Tetris Boulder. The River Boulder itself is a great destination on hot days, allowing climbers (and non-climbers too, of course) to cool off by swimming and jumping from the top of the boulder into the river below.
One of my goals this summer was to climb The Seven Sevens, a list of Frank Slide's best V7 problems. Everything was going according to plan (I had done Evan's Seven (V7), one of the hardest V7s, and Paleofit, one of the easiest), when I attempted to do the next problem on the list, The Evangelist (V7), in a late-night session in early September. It took me several tries to re-discover the bizarre beta for the first move, and so by the time I was getting ready to link the problem I was feeling a worrying pull in my left palm (the first move involves a weird false grip on an incut sidepull near an arete, so it's hard to engage your feet). As I pulled on to try to link the first moves, my ring finger on my left hand (as well as the tendon of that finger through my palm) started to hurt. I hopped off, taped it up, and tried the line again only to immediately jump off as my hand screamed in pain. And just like that, my climbing season (and my quest for the Seven Sevens) was done. I was forced to take some time off (which I generally NEVER do), and though I didn't know it at the time, I wouldn't get back to bouldering again until I went to Idaho in October.
Even more sadly, I would injure my elbow a bit working a hard arete problem at The Channel, which would delay my return to the Slide even longer! Luckily, I was able to get out one more time to the Slide in 2017 on December 16 with Kyle and Alissa; I felt a bit rusty, but it was great to get back to the Slide!
Clearly, there were a lot more things going on in the Slide other than my exploits! To keep things short, I'll run through a few of the highpoints (and lowpoints!)...
- Josh B. exploded his leg, simply by trying too hard. Apparently almost nothing can keep Josh from bouldering, though, and he was back after a few months off, sending new lines in a cast. Notable additions were a handful of desperately dangerous highballs, including a few on the Mecca Boulder high in the Pilgrimage sector.
- I was forced to cancel the Tour de Frank this fall, due to the extreme fire risk. The hot and dry weather that made the Pilgrimage a nice summer destination made the entire Crowsnest area into a tinderbox.
- The number of visiting boulderers to the Slide notably decreased this year. Slowly but surely, Frank Slide is becoming a thing.
- Notable visitors to the Slide included a visit from a strong Okanagan crew; Braden M almost flashed the infamous Cognitive Dissonance (V10).
- Davin has been a solid presence in the Slide this year, sending some hard lines, and adding the classic Gunrunner (V8/9).
- Mark D added a few hard lines, including Breaking and Entering (V8) (a good name, because it was a Dan/Trent project that we had cleaned/built up... just sayin'). ;)
- I finally jumped from the top of the River Rock. I know what you're thinking - it's no big deal - but it seems so high to me.
Next blog post... the Fall Trip to The Channel in Idaho! Stay tuned!
Davin, Kyle, and Dan hanging out at the Tetris Boulder. Amazing views from up there...
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