The event was fantastic, and I managed to win the Masters' Category once again. :) A huge highlight of the event for me was hanging out with Quentin in the Mountain King cave, and getting a very quick send of Mountain King Right (V7), certainly one of the few times I've sent a V7 in just a few tries. Thanks again to everyone involved, I'll be back again next year!
I had a great time putting up some new problems in the Boulderfields this summer. Here's Alissa on one of the lines I cleaned up this trip, Greek Orthodox (V3?4?) on the Greek Boulder deep in the 'Fields. An amazing line on great holds!
Sometimes you find a feature so compelling that you start to obsess over it a bit. On the downhill side of a huge block of streaked gneiss in the 'Fields is a tall steep face with a huge crescent-shaped blade jutting out of it (I'm pinching it in my right hand). What you can't see in the photo that the blade is only about 3 inches thick, with a squared-off edge, forming the perfect 6 foot-long pinch. I climbed the bottom half of the problem, but the (easier, but quite high) end of the problem has a dangerously loose hold that needs to be removed before it can be topped out. When that's done, though, Ulu (V5?) will be one of the most spectacular problems in the 'Fields. What I haven't mentioned, though, is that it also features a terribly dangerous landing zone.
The Greek Boulder is one of the most interesting and wildly-shaped boulders in the entire area, and I felt privileged to put up a handful of lines on it, including Greek Orthodox (V3ish), Greek Unorthodox (V4, with a fantastic lip encounter), Gamma (V4), and the above problem, Archimedes Principle (V4 or V5). Great pulls on sloping rails leads to a funky gaston and a long juggy rail finish. Classic!
I tried some harder things, too. I spent two short sessions working a very cool line of Andy's, a V9ish line on very sloping rails and big powerful moves.
Sometimes you find a feature so compelling that you start to obsess over it a bit. On the downhill side of a huge block of streaked gneiss in the 'Fields is a tall steep face with a huge crescent-shaped blade jutting out of it (I'm pinching it in my right hand). What you can't see in the photo that the blade is only about 3 inches thick, with a squared-off edge, forming the perfect 6 foot-long pinch. I climbed the bottom half of the problem, but the (easier, but quite high) end of the problem has a dangerously loose hold that needs to be removed before it can be topped out. When that's done, though, Ulu (V5?) will be one of the most spectacular problems in the 'Fields. What I haven't mentioned, though, is that it also features a terribly dangerous landing zone.
The Greek Boulder is one of the most interesting and wildly-shaped boulders in the entire area, and I felt privileged to put up a handful of lines on it, including Greek Orthodox (V3ish), Greek Unorthodox (V4, with a fantastic lip encounter), Gamma (V4), and the above problem, Archimedes Principle (V4 or V5). Great pulls on sloping rails leads to a funky gaston and a long juggy rail finish. Classic!
I tried some harder things, too. I spent two short sessions working a very cool line of Andy's, a V9ish line on very sloping rails and big powerful moves.
Finally, what would a trip to the Boulderfields be without a new highball first ascent? Here's a blurry iphone photo of Kyle repeating my new highball above Dominator. Still haven't decided on a name, perhaps Evil Eye (V0/1?). A fantastic new line, with some very beautiful sculpted holds.
I've heard about the line for a few years now, but Alissa and I finally had a chance to try the infamous Spirit Bear Left (V7). A great problem, but higher than I thought! Above the lip (and out of the photo) is a very substantial slab! Not for the weak of heart. I worked it to the holds below the lip, but with only a few pads and one spotter it was getting a little too dicey for me. Next time!
1 comment:
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