Tuesday, March 10, 2020

the Frank Slide 666 List!

In the last few years, the number of boulder problems at Frank Slide has continued to grow.  I first estimated that Frank Slide 'probably' held more than 1000 problems (it certainly does!), then later declared that it would 'probably' have a maximum of about 1500 problems.  So far, my 'probablys' have been wrong, as the problem count at The Slide has likely passed 1700 problems, and is headed to a number somewhere around 2000 problems.

With such an overwhelming number of problems to choose from, many visitors to the Slide find themselves a bit overwhelmed.  With the resources available (27crags (which describes nearly all the problems) and a half-dozen mini-guides (that cover about half of the lines, and feature good maps of the areas)) it's not too difficult to find individual problems - if you know what you're looking for.  However, given that (a) the Slide is hard to walk around in, and (b) it's tricky to navigate the maze-like nature of many of the zones of the Slide, it's very problematic hike around and look for new projects to try.

Given these constraints, wouldn't it be great if there was a list of the best problems of a popular 'project' grade?  Inspired by similar lists in Hueco Tanks, I've made a 'challenge' list of the six best V6s in each of the three main areas of the Slide (i.e. 6 + 6 + 6 V6s), the North Slide (including Heart of Frank, House, Frictionary, City of Giants, and surrounding zones), the Central Slide (includes Karst Valley, Spiderweb, The Farm, and Hulkamaniac), and the South Slide (Healing, Albatross, and all the riverside zones on both sides of the river).  

To tick all of the 18 problems in the 666 list would be a fantastic 'lifetime' goal for many climbers; but if you want to up your game, and really explore the Slide, complete the entire 666 List in one season - finishing, of course, before October 31. 

I've avoided including problems that were too morpho (usually, with really long moves), too remote (hence, the lack of problems in areas high on Turtle Mountain, or on isolated boulders deep in the Slide), or highballs (especially those with bad landings).  

I'd like to also include a caveat for those attempting to climb all the 666 problems; primarily because not every problem suits every person.  When trying to complete the 666 List, I suggest that climbers should get a single replacement - where they can swap out any single problem from the List with another unlisted V6 of their choosing (and there are MANY to choose from!).  After all, it would be frustrating (!) to repeatedly fall off the crux of the last problem on the list on your last visit to Frank Slide in late October.

V6 is one of the best grades to climb in Frank Slide, and every problem on this list is amazing!  All types of climbing are represented - steep caves, aretes, hard face climbs on edges, and even a steep slab!  So, without any further ado, here's the Frank Slide 666 List! 

Northern Slide
1) Prodigal Son.  One of the steeper 666 problems, powerful moves on slopers.
2) Closing Remarks (aka The Juliasizer).  A hard traverse, similar to Red Rock's Alexisizer.
3) Nucleus. A great line with two cruxes on the famous Mushroom Boulder.
4) Shining Path.  A great (and long!) lip traverse not far from the Interpretive Center.
5) Trent's Cave.  A steep problem that follows a seam out a cave, low-end V6.
6) Paleofit.  A hard lip traverse on amazing slopers, immediately left of Trent's Cave.

Central Slide
7) The Cure. A very technical problem, with cryptic beta on perfect 'porcelain' stone.   
8) Man of Science, Man of Faith.  A classic Mark D. line, a great steep arete on good holds.
9) Giddy Up.  A great vertical problem on a sunny face, good project for a cold windless day.
10) Windigo.  A funky technical (almost comp-like) problem with a great hanging start, softer V6. 
11) Smack Talk. A powerful, steep line on edges and pinches, not far from the Healing Boulder.
12) Whale Bones.  The only slab!  A dynamic 'hop' start leads to hard moves on bone-like holds.

Southern Slide
13) Relentless.  One of the oldest 666 problems!  Very powerful moves to an easy, tall finish.
14) Killing Frost.  Killing Frost is an easier version of Energitus (V8), great movement.
15) Submarine.  A beautiful arete immediately beside the river; not accessible during high flows. 
16) Smoke Show.  A stellar problem through a bulge on the Tetris Boulder.  
17) Nautilus.  Another riverside problem, this one climbs through a bulge on perfect rails.
18) Graveyard Shift.  A great problem on sandstone-like limestone, fantastic movement.

I don't have great photos of many of the 666 Problems, but here are a few to whet your appetite!


Me on Prodigal Son (V6), a very fun roof/arete in the Heart of Frank sector, from a few years back.  Prodigal Son features beautiful slopers, a bit unusual for Frank Slide.



Two stellar V6s on the Giant Boulder, in the City of Giants.  The top photo is (a relatively young) Mark Derksen on what would become Paleofit (hard V6), and the bottom photo is Kyle Marco on the end of the rail/seam of Trent's Cave (V6), a problem I found (and partially excavated) on one my early forays into the City of Giants.


Kyle Marco on the sloping lip of Windigo (low-end V6).  Many of the problems on this huge block of amazing limestone in the Spiderweb sector have wind-themed names.

Me on the funky and committing arete of Submarine (V6).  There is often water running out from underneath this boulder, and aspiring climbers often lay their mats across bits of driftwood they've set on the rocks, with the water still running underneath.  A great problem on nice stone!