New Year, New Problems!

The ridiculously warm bout of winter weather continues here in Southern Alberta.  In the past couple of weeks a handful of climbers made the commute to Frank Slide to take advantage of the weather.  I've managed to get out twice in the last couple of weeks, though if I had more time I could have climbed a lot more!

 

The iterant Josh Bylsma made it down several times from central Alberta, once with a handful of Calgarians in tow (including Josh M., Mark, and Zak).  He's been spending a lot of time in the House/Railway area, getting increasing close to sending Frank Slide's hardest problem, Chain Gang (V11).  This week he finally linked all the moves, and sent the second ascent of the problem!  Congrats to him, it's been a long time since the first ascent!

 

He then promptly went on a tear through the Railway Area, sending the first ascents of Once Upon a Time in the West (V9), and Into the Sunset (V10+).  What's next for Josh B.? 

 

In my last two trips to Frank Slide I dedicated a few hours to hunting for new lines in the City of Giants.  I brought a rope along, and found and cleaned two highballs in the CoG, a tough-looking V10ish line right beside a fun V1.  Other than these two problems, I unearthed a few more great lines and a few more projects as well.  In my last trip I sent a handful of moderate lines, including the tallish (and spooky) steep slab Casper (V2), the technical The Opposite of Walking (V3), and the punchy Crankin' Time (V3).  There's not a huge amount of potential in the west part of the City of Giants, but I managed to find a few cool lines nonetheless.

 

Jonas G. has also been fairly active at the Slide, and added a fun new warmup high in the City of Giants called Laps on Laps (V0+).  He also sent The Opposite of Walking (V3), which is a nice send given that it is a slightly heady problem and he has only been bouldering for four months or so.

 

The other usual suspects at the Slide are either injured or recovering from injuries; Kyle is recovering from an injured wrist, Morgan is almost recovered from his leg injury, and Mark has acquired a tweaked finger (not before he sent Nintendo 69 (V9) and The Approved Beta (V8) though, congrats to him on the huge back-to-back sends!).

 

We have been enjoying trip to the Cinnamon Bear in Crowsnest while on climbing trips to Frank Slide; they bake one of the best cinnamon buns I have ever had, and that's saying a lot!  If you have a chance, stop in and enjoy their great hospitality and cinnamon buns, and make sure you tell them you are climbing in the area!

 

On a final note, I have finally compiled a descriptive guide to all 26 sectors of problems at Frank Slide!  It's long overdue, so I finally took an evening, sat down at my computer, and worked through all the individual areas.  I have delineated each of the original sectors based on Kyle's original descriptions, and have delineated the new sectors that have arisen.  So if you are reporting your first ascents on various online websites or social media, try to use the correct nomenclature so we can find your new problems and climb them!  It is hoped that this new guide will cut down on the confusion when it comes to finding boulders in the vast sprawl of Frank Slide.  You can see the new Sector Guide HERE.

 

Take care, and happy climbing!

 

PS> Sorry for the lack of photos, I forgot my camera...

2014: The Year in Review

Another great year of climbing - mostly of the ropeless variety - has come and gone! Bouldering was heavily featured on my climbing menu this past year; unless I am mistaken, the only times I put on a rope were to clean tall boulder problems.  Most of my climbing days were spent at Frank Slide, but I did manage a couple of trips, one to Leavenworth, Washington and one to Priest Lake, Idaho.  I began my new ‘real’ full-time job in August (I am now a Professor at the University of Lethbridge), but managed to keep on climbing through the fall, though not as frequently as I would have otherwise liked.  Given that I am 43 (turning 44 in January!), I was pleasantly surprised that I climbed so well this year.  I climbed a number of hard(ish) problems this year, though I have no illusions that I am as physically strong as I once was (erp!).  Hopefully with a little effort I'll get in proper shape again in 2015.

Regardless of my level of fitness and my state of employment, I had a lot of fun climbing this year.  So, in no particular order, the top seven things that went down in “Trent Hoover’s Bouldering Universe” in the last 12 months!

Evan E. on the stellar almost-highball The Communist (V7), Aftermath Boulder, House Sector, Frank Slide.

1) My trip to Leavenworth, Washington.  For years, I have listened to and read about trips my friends made to Leavenworth.  Though I lived in Vancouver for years, it was always so much easier to go to Squamish or to the Fraser Valley instead of crossing the border and driving to Leavenworth.  This past year, though, I had to opportunity to go on a 10-day trip to Leavenworth with two great boulderers, Kyle M. (Frank Slide’s reigning king of bouldering) and Colin D. (one of my oldest friends, and perpetually excited to climb).  We went to Leavenworth in mid-May, and had a great time; perfect weather, lots of fun, good people, and a chance to sample the bouldering of one of America’s best bouldering areas.  For me, the trip culminated with a send of one of the west’s most celebrated problems, Was (V8).  Another highlight of the trip was watching Kyle almost do The Amphitheatre Dyno (VHard) at Mad Meadows, a truly giant jump.  Needless to say, I didn’t try it (those of you who have ever seen me dyno will appreciate that).

 

Caitlin D. on The Hueco Route (V1), Mad Meadows, Leavenworth.  The foot in the hueco is Colin's, who managed to climb entirely into a huge hueco... 

2. Keep The Faith (V8), Priest Lake.  Some people think boulderers have no sense of adventure.  While that may be the case for some people, it certainly doesn’t apply to me (or so I like to think ;) ).  The search for new boulder problems (and new areas!) has kept me prowling about the mountains of western North America for many years.  This year was no exception, and in August Kyle and I headed off to Northern Idaho on a hunch; that we might find new boulders in the Lion’s Creek watershed near Priest Lake.  After a long drive, we finally arrived.  We DID find lots of boulders in the forest there, but most of them were unfortunately blank.  Still, we did clean one of the coolest new problems I’ve seen in a long time.  We spent two days working the moves, and I sent it on the last day of the trip, naming it Keep The Faith (V8).  A series of underclings lead to a big cube-shaped block underneath a roof, followed by a very cool lip move and one of the most unique top-outs I’ve ever seen.  Immediately to the left of the problem is Black Robe (V4), a very cool highball with a fantastically continuous rail that zigs and zags from the base of the problem almost to the lip.  Two world-class problems, side by side!

Me on the huge roof block of Keep The Faith (V8), Priest Lake, Idaho.

 

3. 71 First Ascents!  I am always thankful that I live close to a bouldering area with interesting problems.  I am even more thankful that Frank Slide has interesting problems still waiting to be done.  Graveyard Shift (V6), Helping Hands (V1), the fantastic bulge problem The Blessing (V7), and the fun prow Black Peter (V4) were all great new problems we found in The Slide this year.  I am looking forward to another year of new problems at The Slide and beyond.  I have my eye on more lines, so I’m excited to get back to training this winter in hope of doing a few more hard FAs come spring.

4. The Karage, Lethbridge.  Kyle’s garage (aka The Karage) has been a great place to train.  A TV, a couch, and lots of holds; what else does one need? It’s pretty much a three-season facility, though, since it can be too cold to climb at in winter unless temperatures are unseasonally warm (which does happen periodically, given that we live in Lethbridge).  I need to be a little more regimented with my training in 2015, though, if I am going to reach some of the goals I have set for myself.  The Karage has a new DVD player, and in 2015 it might get a new TV. 

Kyle M. starting up the fantastic highball Overtime (V2ish), City of Giants, Frank Slide.

5. The 2014 Tour de Frank.  This autumn we hosted the inaugural Tour de Frank, an outdoor bouldering competition / festival.  We kept it pretty casual, with minimal advertising, and still had about 30 people show up.  We’re not certain of the TdF’s future, because there are many logistic hurdles to overcome, but we’re hoping that next year we can elevate the TdF to make it a fun regional event.  This year, the TdF was won by Andrew Funk and Josh Bylsma (tie) for the men, and Shelley Hoover for the women.  

 

Andrew Funk on the seldom-repeated and intricate Fender (somewhere between V6 and V8) during the 2014 Tour de Frank, Frank Slide.

6. The Right Right (V8).  I was excited (and pleasantly surprised) to send The Right Right, which is the right-hand version of the Split Right Project (which is still undone).  The so-called ‘Split Projects’ were long-standing projects on the backside of the Split Boulder in the City of Giants, and I was glad to send one of them. The Right Right is a heel-hook dependent problem (which is cool), but on small edges and pinches (not my strength).  Regardless, I managed to send it in a handful of tries on my second session on the problem.  On the same day, I sent the FA of The Blessing (V7) and also sent The Cure (V6/7), a Kyle Marco technical arête line on the Porcelain Boulder.  A fantastic day in the Slide!

 

Josh B. on Morgan Dunnet's testpiece Cognitive Dissonance (V10).  Hard!

7. All the hard lines in the Slide that went down (though not by me) this year!  Several lines were done that are not only brutally hard, but inspiring; Morgan Dunnet’s powerful Cognitive Dissonance (V10) (check out the video HERE) and Josh Bylsma’s testpieces March of Time (V10?, a very hard (!) lip traverse), and The Shield (V10ish, harder as you get shorter).  These problems are now among the hardest problems at the Slide; the other hard lines being Terry Paholek’s Shelley Was A Doctor First (V10), and Adam Currie’s  now-broken Chain Gang (V11?).  Another huge send was Morgan’s Split Left (V9), one of the most technically demanding and powerful problems in the slide.  Another key ascent this year as Kyle's send of the absolutely stellar The Communist (V7), which is one of best (if not THE best) problem at the Slide.  The number of hard problems exploded in The Slide this year, and there are still hard projects remaining; Josh is making the Sunny Corner Project look feasible…

 

Jonas G. on Calvin's Arete (V0/1), one of the lines in the Karst Valley Sector; dozens of lines went up in Karst Valley and the City of Giants this year. 

So what does the New Year hold?  The future is always a mystery, but there are a few things I am looking forward to in 2015.  I have a half-dozen lines in The Slide I would really love to climb; most (but not all) of them are currently unclimbed.  It will take some dedication on my part, however, to get in good enough shape to climb them.  Most of the hard problems in the slide are on flat edges / crimps, which isn’t my strength.  However, it is easier to make gains if you work your weaknesses rather than your strengths, so that is what I hope to do in my quest to knock off a few more hard problems in the next twelve months.

I would also like to go on another spring trip, either to Joe’s Valley (which is number one on my list of places to visit) or to Hope / Okanagan.  The bouldering at The Boulder Fields by Kelowna looks fantastic, but is primarily on crimps, which doesn’t make me that excited.  However, it IS really steep, which would be a nice change from Frank Slide.

Finally, I am looking forward to climbing more with my family in 2015.  My kids are old enough now they don’t immediately hurt themselves in the boulders, and it would be great to climb with Shelley at Frank Slide.  So, with a little luck, bouldering will be more of a family affair in the next year.

And finally, as always, I would love to climb with you!  If you'd like to climb at The Slide, and have a tolerance for bad landings, let me know; I'm always up to show people around!

So Merry Christmas and a Happy New (Bouldering) Year, everyone!

Jonas G. on the fun new slab Salted Earth (V0), high in the City of Giants.

(The Other) Limestone Bouldering Area!

I couldn't help but repost this video of the bouldering in the Gran Sasso of central Italy.  Limestone doesn't usually produce boulders big enough for bouldering on (the rock tends to fracture instead of forming blocks).  I was excited to see this trailer for a film about limestone bouldering in Italy, especially as several of the problems look very (!) Frank Slide-like.



The film is entitled Magia di Calcare (The Magic of Limestone).  Click here to enjoy the short film!

PS> Let me know if the link doesn't work for you, or if the photo doesn't appear...

2014 Tour de Frank Recap

The 2014 Tour de Frank was a success!  Perfect weather and a great group of climbers was a winning combination for the first annual Tour de Frank.  We had intentionally tried to keep the event low-key, with minimal advertising, as this was our first attempt at running an 'outdoor bouldering festival' event at Frank Slide.  Despite the limited advertising, we were excited to see about 25 people come out to the Tour de Frank, including handfuls of climbers from Edmonton, Red Deer, Calgary, Lethbridge, the Crowsnest Pass, and Lethbridge. 

Orientation started at about 11:15 (with free coffee and muffins available), and by 11:45 climbers were heading out into the Healing and Snakebite Sectors of Frank Slide for five hours of bouldering.  Everyone was provided with a guide to the area and a scorecard (which listed the 70+ problems that were included in the TdF this year, including four previously unclimbed projects).

After orientation, I stuck around the 'front desk' for an hour or so, in case any stragglers showed up.  Luckily, there were fun problems close at hand, and I warmed up by climbing Cottonwood Road (V1) a handful of times with Jonas Gagnon, who recently moved to Lethbridge.  I also managed to repeat the tricky Two for a Dollar (V3) before moving on.  I was happy when my wife Shelley (as well as my children Aya and Rowan) showed up to climb as well - we rarely get to climb together!  I was also excited to see my friend Geoff Mintenko, who I hadn't seen (or climbed with) in over a decade. The Tour de Frank is a great way to meet people, apparently!

 Boulderers around and on the notoriously reachy Snakebite (V2).

We headed over to the Snakebite Boulder where we climbed with a handful of boulderers from Lethbridge and Cranbrook, as well as Jonathan (and his two amazing girls Ruby and Sadie) from Beaver Mines.  Shelley warmed up by doing the reachy Snakebite (V2) fairly easily, with Jonas coming very close on the line as well.  We packed up and headed over to the Relentless Area to climb some of the slabs on the Foxhole Boulder, where we climbed briefly with Kyle and a few people from the Crowsnest Pass area.  I tried to repeat the powerful Relentless (V6) with Dan and Geoff, but none of us could quite make the huge cruxy reach at mid-height. I then turned my attention to Redonculous (V5) to the right of Relentless (which I had never tried before), coming very close but falling off the last hard move.

Boulderers from Lethbridge and Cranbook sending the powerful Apple Shampoo (V4/5).

Packing up to head over to the Healing Boulder, we met up with Dan Archambault, Andrew Funk, Josh Bylsma, and Mark Derksen (from Edmonton, Red Deer, and Lethbridge).  They were steaming through the hard problems on the scorecard, even though it was a bit too warm at that point for truly hard climbing.  I chatted for a bit, but then quickly dashed over to the Killer Boulder to do a lap on Killer Bees (V4) before I ran out of time.  I did manage to send Killer Bees, but I was too slow on the walk over to the boulder and didn't get it done before the time ran out.  I wished I had had the opportunity to climb a bit more, but being one of the organisers it was a great experience just to be able to hang out with so many climbers. The social experience was as rewarding as the climbing, certainly!

With sore tips, I headed back to the 'front desk'.  Kyle was already there, gathering the score cards.  Andrew and Josh had tied for the top overall spot, with Dan Archambault close behind.  Seeing what they had accomplished in five hours made me think I need to devote a little more time to training! Not everyone turned in a scorecard, which was fine with us; not everyone is as interested in the competitive aspect of the TdF, and we were excited to see that people were interested in coming out just to enjoy a day of bouldering.  

When all the points were tallied, the winners were:

Top Junior Male: Will Kwan
Top Junior Female: Ciara Meadows

Top Beginner Female: Danica Jensen
Top Beginner Male: Jonas Gagnon

Top Master' Male (40+): Dan Anhorn

Top Open Female: Shelley Hoover
Top Open Male: Andrew Funk and Josh Bylsma (TIE)
 
All things considered, it was a very successful TdF, especially since we hadn't advertised the event widely and hadn't expected too many people.  The only small disappointment was the rather small number of climbers from Lethbridge.  The Lethbians that did attend were definitlely psyched (!), which was awesome to see, but it would have been nicer to see more climbers from the closest city to the Slide.

I also wish I had had more time just to be able to connect with the climbers.  In particular, I wish I had been able to spend more time climbing with people from the Crowsnest Pass (if Crowsnest Pass climbers are reading this, I'm hoping to get the chance to climb with you again!).

We're already planning next year!  Huge thanks to my co-organisers Kyle and Alyssa; Kyle spent a lot of time distributing pencils and signs to all the areas, and Alyssa took some amazing pictures despite having her foot in a brace (all the photos above are by Alyssa).

Until next time...

PS> I'll try to get names attached to the captions in the photos, I don't have them here at my desk...

Tour de Frank THIS WEEKEND!

The Tour de Frank is almost upon us!  This Saturday! 

This year, the TdF will be a low-key event - intentionally so.  We're working to create a casual event, with a focus primarily on the fun bouldering at the Slide, having a good time, and creating an opportunity for people to meet other climbers at the biggest bouldering area in Alberta.

Having said that, we have a great selection of problems for people to choose from (from V0 to V8+, with four unclimbed projects). Whatever your climbing level, we have problems that will ensure you have a good time.  Come out and climb!  The weather forecast looks absolutely perfect!

If everything goes well at this inaugural (and experimental!) event, we'll expand into a more substantial event next year.  This year, though, it will be a casual event.  We'll have the trappings of an outdoor bouldering event at Frank Slide on Saturday, though; free coffee and muffins in the morning, slacklines and a fire afterwards.  Prizes will be really minimal (as this is a 'test run'), but so is the entry fee (entry by donation to offset the cost of food, any excess money collected will be donated to the Southern Rockies Route Bolting Fund).

The format and rules of the Tour de Frank are as follows:

1)  You have FIVE hours (11:30 – 4:30) to climb as many problems as you wish!  There will be 70 hand-picked problems to choose from. We will use your SIX hardest problems to determine your score, though, so plan wisely!  You only have so much skin!

2)  You MUST (and this is NOT negotiable) have at least ONE spotter and TWO pads when attempting problems.  We realise that this may be inconvenient, but this is not a bouldering gym.   Our solution?  Be social!  Climb with others!  Climb with people you don’t know!  Introduce yourself, and ask for a spot.

3)  When you complete a problem, check it off on your Check List by initialling beside it.  Simple!  Don’t lose your pencil.

4) Keep track of the time.  Starting heading back to the main area / parking area around 4:00. You must have your sheet handed in by 4:30. 

Categories:
In both Male and Female groups there are Beginner (V0-V1), Intermediate (V2-V6), Open (V7+), and Masters (40+ age), and Junior (age 0-16) categories.

Time & Location
10-12 Free Coffee and Muffins, 11-11:30  trash cleanup (see a TdF helper if you want to help), 11:30-4:30 Bouldering!  We will meet at the east end of the slide at the gravel road that parallels the river (see the map below); the gravel road can be accessed from the main highway by turning south (toward the river and Turtle Mountain) at the last turnoff at either end of the slide, and following the road back into the slide.  If  you are approaching from the east (from Calgary), take the last left turn you can make before the slide, driving down the hill, and turning right before you cross the bridge. 

We'll have volunteers around to help people find problems.  Don't worry if you've never been to The Slide before!  

DO bring a bouldering mat if you have one, though!  We'll have a dozen mats for use at the TdF, but we can always use more at the Slide!

See you there!

2014 Tour de Frank! One Month To Go!

After a great deal of thought and planning, we are psyched to announce the time, format, and location of the 2014 Tour de Frank!  For those who may not be aware, the Tour de Frank is a celebration of Alberta's best bouldering area, the limestone blocks of Frank Slide in the Crowsnest Pass.  It is both a fun day of bouldering in the southern Rockies with your friends, and a way to meet climbers from other areas. It is structured like a competition (complete with a range of categories), but the focus is on fun and the challenges of bouldering!

The Tour de Frank will be held on Saturday, Sept. 20, 2014.  It follows a format borrowed from the Hueco Rock Rodeo.  Participants will be provided with a score sheet with a list of ~70 hand-picked problems in one area of the Slide, with difficulty ranging from V0- to V8+ (including three unclimbed projects!).  They will then have five hours (from 10:00 - 3:00) to climb as many problems as they wish.  The six hardest problems climbed by each climber will be used to calculate their score for the day.  The focus is on fun, so if you are a novice or a serious boulderer, we'll have problems selected to ensure you have a great time!

We're working to get some of the typical perks associated with an outdoor bouldering event in place; coffee and muffins in the morning, juice and water during the day, and a BBQ after the event is over.  With a little luck we'll have a slackline set up as well.  We are hoping to run a trash pickup event before and during the comp to help keep the area clean. 

Bring your bouldering mat, chalk, coffee cup, friends, and your excitement for bouldering to Frank Slide on Sept. 20!  We will have copies of the new bouldering guide available for people to use, and knowledgeable locals will also be on hand to steer people to the problems.

The autumn is usually quite dry in Southern Alberta, so we're not expecting rain.  If, however, the forecast two days before the event indicates that heavy rain is expected, we will post online that the event is cancelled/postponed.  Cross your fingers that it's not necessary!

More details to come soon!  Mark the day on  your calendar!

Priest Lake Mini-Guide!

Here's a mini-guide I put together for the boulders at Priest Lake, Idaho.  Obviously there are MANY more boulders than the ones evident in this guide, but there weren't any problems cleaned on them, so I didn't include them.

How to get to the Priest Lake Boulders?  Drive to the far northeast corner of Priest Lake (the Lionhead Unit of the park); it's about an hour (maybe a bit less) from Priest River.  Turn right immediately after crossing Lion Creek up a gravel road; it starts a bit rough, but then gets rougher.  Drive up approximately 7km, passing a few good camping spots, and carefully navigating around boulders jutting from the road.  Eventually you'll see a gravel pit / camping area on your right, park here.  You'll see boulders in the trees across from the camping area.

One of the other big attractions in the area is the natural rock water slides.  They're a bit further up the valley, and there always seems to be a stream of people driving up the road to visit them.  We didn't go there, of course, but they must be fun!

At any rate, you can get the PDF of the mini-guide HERE.  Enjoy!

Other than that, there isn't much in the way of news.  I went to Frank Slide last weekend and bouldered with Ashlee and Ryan, who are moving to Edmonton :(.  They will be sorely missed by the climbing community of Lethbridge!  We mostly did a moderate circuit in the areas near the river, including The Neighbor (V2), Dance Dance Revolution (V4), Paranoia (V2), Cottonwood Road (V1), and a handful of problems on the Lipsmacker Boulder. 

What's next?  Since my knee isn't getting better as quickly as I would like, I'm thinking my drill and I might go exploring in the mountains this weekend; I've got my eye on a little sport crag...

Until next time!